Lalbagh Fort in Old Dhaka

One of the main reasons I wanted to go to Old Dhaka was to visit Lalbagh Fort as when I had been previously on Fridays, it had been closed. Construction of the fort began in 1677 but it was never finished. However, three structures were finished in 1684 - the Hall of the Audience, the Quilla Mosque and the Mausoleum with the latter shown in the photo below.
It was set amid well-maintained gardens and from up on top one of the surrounding walls there was a good view over the shops and street that adjoined it. While close to the mosque, local boys were using the space to play an impromptu game of cricket. But these ones peered at us through the fence and were quite happy to have their photo taken.

As the day was still quite hot, the shady alcoves at the bottom of the wall provided an ideal seat. It was also a place where couples could meet and spend time together.

Then of course, we attracted attention all along the way. This brave person even asked to have his photo taken with some of our group!!

The river is a harbour

While in Old Dhaka last weekend, we went down to the river's edge to check out the action. The river area is actually Dhaka's port - bundles of bananas were being carried on heads from the wooden boat at the river's edge, along planks and up the slope to the nearby warehouse. Here they were being piled into baskets before heading off to their sale destination. A warehouse (well open shed with 3 walls and a roof) opposite was the pineapple distribution centre.
The man below carries live chickens on his head. Since I first saw one wandering around Gulshan where I live, I have wanted a photo. While near the river, as I am about to round a corner I almost get run over by a man and his chicken hat!
There are boats everywhere on the river, from small wooden boats like these are the river-crossing taxi service where many in checked lungyis sit waiting for customers, some under umbrellas. Dredges lumber along the middle of the river while the large passenger ferries float side by side waiting for there passengers to board. Hustle and bustle is everywhere - boats, people, rickshaws and CNGs.
As is the usual situation in Bangladesh, people like having their photos taken and readily pose for the camera such as this young man.
Alice and Zac got brave and took one of the small wooden boats out onto the river for a 20 minute cruise around, doding the naked boys swimming, the small boats criss-crossing the river, the slow-moving dredges and the general flotsam and jetsam that dots the river. AND they arrived back safely . . . ..

Old Dhaka: Sitara Mosque

Close to the Armenian Church in distance, but a whole world away culturally was the next stop - Sitara Mosque, also called the Star Mosque, but I didn't know this until I started writing this blog entry. Even though I have seen many mosques, and most of them in Bangladesh are very plain, as we approached I started saying "it's so beautiful", and it is. Facing was a series of archways with two large domes and three smaller domes above. But it was the colour that was most striking: white, not a grubby white, with coloured glass inset in these tiles. The mosque dates from the early 18th century but has changed considerably since then.



Inside there is a mosaic floor and tiles with floral patterns set on the wall. Many of these tiles added in the renovation around 50 years ago are from Japan and the UK. According to Lonely Planet this includes tiles with pictures of Mt Fuji but I didn't notice any, not that I was looking.


Why it is called the Star Mosque? The most logical reason seems that there is a large star in the pool out the front of the mosque. But it could also be that pieces of china and glass used as decoration appear as twinkling stars if viewed from a distance.

Old Dhaka: Armenian Church

The Lonely Planet guide wasn't lying when it said that this church is an "oasis of tranquillity". It is definitely a place of peace and calm among the mayhem, madness, noise and bustle that is Dhaka. It comes as such a surprising sight among the grubby apartment blocks and squashed together shops with boys playing badminton on the street out the front.

The ginger trimmed with white building that is the Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection was mostly built in 1781 after an Armenian colony settled in Dhaka in the 17th century. Today nine families remain.

On entry what struck me most was the large number of graves, and there was more on the opposite side of the church. Not only did they fill the grounds but were also under the verandah. Many of the graves still had text that could be read. Some was in English, some in Bangla, maybe not looking at the photo below.


The interior is simple but stunning. with red and blue detail contrasting with the white walls and roof. There was also a lovely circular set of stairs in one corner. It is still used. Armenian Christmas Day is on January 6th but the service is to be held tomorrow on January 9th since that is the day businesses are closed here. We were even invited to return for the service for which a visiting priest is being used.


The caretaker, who has been there for twenty years, welcomes visitors and shows them around. he is also prepared to share what he knows and answer questions you may have. I made a small donation in return.

Old Dhaka: Shankharia Bazar

As today was a holiday and I didn't have to work, a colleague who had the use of a school van and I went and visited Old Dhaka. First stop was the Pink Palace but unfortunately it was closed - it is closed Thursday and half of Friday (opening at 3 pm) so maybe next time.

Next stop was Shankharia Bazar, commonly called Hindu Street that I had visited before. However this time it was decorated for something, but I am not sure what. You can see this in the first photo.

Even though it was a holiday, not much was closed on this street. The fruit and vegetable sellers were out on the street with their basket containing eggplant, tomatoes and some green vegetable or the flower sellers were out with roses or orange marigolds
or most interesting to me was a man with a basket of pumpkin flowers, tied into small bunches, that he was selling. Not sure what for, whether it was to eat or whether it was for some traditional Hindu ceremony. Something for me to find out!

Shankharias are Hindu artisans. Here you can see them making the conch shell bracelets, drums, carving gravestones and making kites.